Iceland Day #9

We wrapped up our circle around the peninsula this morning and headed back to Reykjavik. We had some time to kill, so we picked up a few souvenirs in the shopping district: sea salt for me and a coffee mug for Wes. Keagan finally got his long-awaited crepes. Sadly, he wasn’t thrilled with his lemon/chocolate combo, but my apple/maple syrup combo was delicious! I’m glad it was my last day in country, or I would have been tempted to eat it every day.

With only a few minutes to spare, we drove the hour to the airport. What a memorable trip! 

Top 5 of Iceland:

• The Waterfalls - each unique and beautiful
• The Wildflowers - lupine, mountain avas, hare bell, and buttercups line every field, highway, yard
• The Animals - sheep, horses, seals, whales, birds, and of course, the cows
• Skyr - thick, creamy Icelandic yogurt with a high protein content
• The Color Green - Maybe we had too many holidays in the West surrounded by rocks, but the bright green color of the grass will forever be painted in my memories. 

I’m eager to drink a diet Dr Pepper, take a shower in water without the sulphur smell, sleep in my bed with the fan on high, go to the gym, and soak up the summer sun. 

Home, sweet home, is only seven hours away!

Iceland Day #8

I have noticed that the Olis, the corner gas station found in every town, has a gathering spot for locals to come drink coffee and chit chat. It’s the Herschel’s of Iceland. I find it so wholesome. In many ways all of Iceland has this small town vibe that seems unbothered by the outside world.

We drove four hours south to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, which is nicknamed “Iceland in Miniature” because you can find just about every geological feature in this small contained area. It rained on us again, but we drove through gorgeous farmland. My goal today was to see seals, puffins, and hike a trail in the national park. 

✅ Seals 

✅ Hiked a trail

We walked along a very unstable rocky shoreline at Ytri Tunga Beach to see the seals. You know the meme that says to test your age you should fall in public. If others laugh, you are young. If others rush to your aid, you are old. I slipped on a wet rock covered in moss and fell down. “Let me help you up,” was the first thing I heard followed by, “You must be very careful. This is dangerous.” No laughter was heard. That settles that.

We had to get the obligatory Bjanararfoss picture, but nobody was interested in walking to the base. Remember what I said about falling water? Yeah, that.

We found a picturesque church on the coast. 

We visited the fishing village, Arnarstapi, for the sole purpose of finding a public bathroom. Keagan says if he ruled the world bathrooms would be open to anyone (not just guests) and you’d never be expected to pay. 

Our Air B&B is adjacent to what appears to be a legit art gallery, but this is the view from my room. 

We are staying the night with a handful of tourists in the fishing village Hellissandur that has been in operation since the 9th century.

👎🏻 Puffins 

Time’s running out to see a puffin up close. I’ve seen them from afar on the water, but I was hoping to see one land at my feet. I still have tomorrow…

Iceland Day #7

Keagan this morning: Can we please go somewhere for breakfast? Y’all over here wanting to hike and see things and you are doing it on the calories of granola bars. I need some food. 

So our day began at a cafe eating eggs and bacon with fresh sourdough bread. 

The sun is shining! This made the Godafoss stop incredible. 

Our adventures, though, quickly went downhill. 

Strike #1: Hverir 

This geothermal area smelled horrible and had no redeeming qualities like color or intrigue. The tea pots did nothing for us. 

Strike #2: Dimmuborgir Lava Fields

Sure, a volcano erupted 2000 years ago and formed these lava fields and lava caves. But it’s rock. On a side note, the 13 Yule Lads live here and prepare to deliver Christmas gifts in December, but it’s June and they were all sleeping. Small children were looking in every nook and cranny attempting to spot them. 

And we had to pay to use the bathroom. The bathrooms here are not separated by gender. Anyone can enter any stall they choose.

The volcano is in the backdrop.

On our way to stop #3 I finally got my Icelandic horse pic. He looks like my grandad’s ol’ horse Chester. Horses are eaten here; it’s a delicacy. 

Strike #3: Grjótagjá Cave and Fissure

The cave houses hot springs and was once a swimming hole. A volcano erupted recently and the temp of the water spiked. It’s no longer considered safe. I would have loved to have sat on the edge and dangled my feet in it. 

Strike #4: Psuedocraters

Hot volcanic rock bubbles to the surface of wet, boggy land and blows the top of the soil away forming psuedocraters. They can only be found in Iceland, Hawaii, The Azores, and Mars. Interesting, but this is a strike because it’s a bowl in the ground. 

Four strikes and yet I vowed to keep playing. There was still time remaining in the game.

Keagan was ready to eat again and refused to consider a gas station sandwich as an option. I tried to explain that my frugality is what allows these twice a year adventures, but he didn’t want to hear it. He demanded protein from an animal preferably slow cooked on an open fire. That’s how we found ourselves at Vogafjos Cow Shed for a farm-to-table meal. 

Let me repeat. A cow shed. 

It was a home run for me. While I waited for my hamburger and side salad to be prepared, I went to the barn to pet cows. I petted every single cow. I spoke kind words to every cow and the new born calves. I was in heaven. I returned after I ate my hamburger. 

So did Keagan. Because he ate lamb, he had no qualms getting up close to the cows.

The irony of eating a burger after petting cows is not lost on me. The fact that I won’t pet random dogs, but I’ll pet a cow is not strange at all. 

This stop was a grand slam!

I’m not keen on soaking in hot springs water with the elderly cruisers and the Japanese tourists - even if every guidebook and travel expert claims it is a must-do. But I’m happy to sit in the AirB&B hot tub that I filled with water and sanitized myself. 

Three hours later…That’s how you soak in Iceland. 

Iceland Day #6

We woke up - rather early today by our standards - to more rain. Luckily, we had a long car ride ahead of us, and we were traveling during the heaviest rain. The drive took us down gravel roads, through mountains so high we were in the clouds, and beautiful scenery. The best news is we did it today without getting a flat tire. 

We stopped to stretch our legs and eat our gas station sandwiches at Rjúkandifoss. We have seen so many falls that we are now just stopping and thinking, “Yep. More falling water.”

It was here Keagan asked if we were going to eat again. He needed to know if rationing his lamb jerkey was necessary or if another meal was on the horizon.

We stopped again about a half hour down another gravel road to see Studlagil Canyon. This would have been a gorgeous hike, but we were on a timeline and couldn’t chance missing our boat. 

We made it to Huvasik, the whale watching capitol of Europe, in time to grab a meal of fish and chips. Maybe not the smartest meal choice with a boat ride on choppy water ahead of us, but we live dangerously. 

This quaint fishing village has two things going for it: whales and fishing. We did all it had to offer.

Six months ago I asked Keagan where he wanted to go for summer vacation, and he said he wanted to go whale watching. Hence, our trip to Iceland. Whales are almost always seen here in June to feed before they migrate south to give birth. 

We were given special suits to protect us from the wind and rain. With this thing on, we were very comfortable out on the open water. 

And whales we saw! And seals and puffins. What a great day trip! 

Gas station food is our friend, so we stopped for snacks on our way to house number three in Akureyi. The sun came out at 8:30, and we had to stop to take a few pictures. 

We have one happy boy! I think our next trip needs to be a food focused destination, though. 

Iceland Day #5

Have you seen a glacier? Hiked to a glacier? Stood on a glacier? We can say yes to all three after today’s adventure. Skaftafell National Park was our stop today. 

We got lucky on the drive out because the clouds disappeared for a short time allowing us to see the tops of the mountains. 

But it was short lived because the gloomy skies returned as we arrived to the park. But a glacier, y’all!

We followed the trail a couple of miles out to the water’s edge. 

From afar the glacier appears white - like ice. 

But as you get closer and see the underside, it’s black from the sediment it has collected from run-off!

This was a four mile hike that we found enjoyable because very few people went as far out to the glacier as we did. 

Keagan climbed on top, crouched below, and crawled through crevices in the broken ice. 

On our way back to Hofn we stopped at Diamond Beach, a black sand beach. 

We didn’t see iceberg pieces, but I did spot a seal swimming in the cold waters. My day was made!

After eating granola bars and gas station egg sandwiches for two days, we splurged on dinner. Keagan had lamb with duck that he rated one of the best meals he’s ever eaten. 

Tonight is reserved for laundry and repairing a flat tire. Fun times!