Yoho National Park

We woke up to no snow, so we took the car west to Yoho, a smaller, less popular national park, but it has some highlights all the same. 

Our first stop was the most popular spot in the park, Emerald Lake. We hiked the perimeter of the lake in mud, over logs, through water. It was quite the adventure. When we arrived, it was sprinkling, but after an hour or so long hike, the sun was out and that gave us the beautiful lake colors you see in the pictures.

The canoe rental here is only $90 an hour - the cheapest rate in the area. I would have loved a pic from the bow of a canoe, but that’s one expensive picture. 

The next popular site is just down the road and made for a quick stop - Natural Bridge. 

We took a paved, quick path to Takakkaw Falls, the second tallest waterfall in Canada. 

And we found another set of red chairs. 

On our way back to the village of Field we spotted black bears. The entire trip was made!

We had a delicious lunch at the one restaurant in the village of Field, Truffle Pigs Bistro. I mean this was really good. It’s no wonder people wait three hours to eat here. We arrived back to Canmore with only 20 minutes remaining on our park pass. It’s time to watch some Vol baseball while we wash these muddy clothes and get ready for the trip home. 

What a week! 

The Icefields Parkway

What a long day! But such a beautiful adventure! Donned as the “most beautiful drive in the world” we took The Icelands Parkway from Banff to Jasper. It was a long car ride with stops every hour - each stop showcasing something spectacular. 

Stop #1 Peyto Lake - We are currently under a snow storm watch and it started to flurry just as we got to this look out point. But that blue! This was a half hour hike, and a good one to start with so we could warm up. 

Stop #2 Mistaya Canyon - The clouds began to clear by the time we made it here. The sun wasn’t quite out but I began to have hope we would see sun instead of snow. This was my favorite stop. The steep climb back to the car park was totally worth it!

We met some fellow Middle Tennesseans on this hike, too.

Stop  #3 Athabasca Glacier

This stop allows you to pay $125 to stand on a glacier. I’ve walked on ice, and I have the scar on my face to prove it. No way I’m paying that! 

Fun fact! The wind blowing off of a glacier makes it feel colder. I had on three layers and I was still cold. The sun was hidden and the snow wanted to fall. 

Stop #4 Sunwapta Falls

The Upper Falls were near the car park, but we took a nice little hike to lower falls. This trail reminded me a lot of the Dunbar Cave trail back at home because of the packed mud path with the exposed tree trunks. The fall is about 60 feet but the melting snow feeds it so it was impressive.

Stop #5 Athabasca Falls

I loved this stop because the sedimentary rock layers were so prevalent. Or maybe it was the second hand smoke from the kids’ joint. Either way, I liked this stop. This was a powerful waterfall but not very tall. 

Stop #6 Jasper

We had lunch at Maligne Canyon and spotted several elk and deer on the road side. 

Stop #7 Horseshoe Lake

The water temp was 34 degrees and the locals were jumping in and swimming! Lord have mercy. I had hypothermia just watching them. The skies were clear and the sun was shining but it was not warmer than 60 degrees. 

Stop #8 Herbert Lake

At this point I’m pretty much laked, waterfalls, and canyoned out. At some point, you just begin to ask how many more can there be? At least one more day’s worth! 

After 12 hours, we arrived back in Canmore, our home base for the week. I’m going to bed tonight hoping the overnight snow does not stick. I still have another lake, waterfall and canyon to see!

Banff Day 2

Our first stop today was the Banff Gondola. We woke up to clouds and a sprinkling of rain. I doubted this expensive adventure would be worth my time, but by the time we got up to the top of Sulphur Mountain, the clouds cleared and the sun came out. 

The views were breathtaking. 

Our one hike for the day was Bow River Falls. This was more of a stroll, but as with everything here, just beautiful - especially with the sun shining. 

After lunch we drove to Tunnel Mountain to see the hoodoos, odd rock statues, formed by erosion. These have nothing on the hoodoos found in Bryce Canyon, but we are here for it all. 

If we have learned anything, the weather changes on a dime. Accurate weather forecasting does not happen here. It was sprinkling again and the sun was trying to shine when we made it to this stop.

Due to the rain, we opted to skip our scheduled rafting trip down the Bow River, so we headed back to Canmore for dessert instead. The thousand calories I consumed at lunch was not enough. We picked up the traditional Beaver Tail and I’m pissed that it took me five days to agree to give it a try. 

I mean who wouldn’t like fried dough brushed with butter and sugar? I’m going back and I might even bring some on the plane. 

The sun came back out, so we took the long way home following the boardwalk in Canmore through the marsh. Canmore is quaint and perfect. I love it because everybody else loves Banff more.

We are in early tonight for laundry, Vol baseball, and the Mavs game. Another great day in beautiful Alberta. 

Banff

Banff was today’s target. We started our day at the Instagram worthy Johnston Canyon. I founds IG reels on this stop a few months ago and it was just as beautiful in person as on social media. I’ll be honest and say the beauty would have been marred by crowds of people, so we made sure we were some of the first people to enter. The temp was 43 degrees, but the two mile hike up warmed you up fairly quickly. 

As the sun got higher in the sky, the lighting in the trees changed and in some places changed dramatically. The calcite powder is prevalent everywhere, so the beautiful blue can be seen in all bodies of water.

We stopped at lower falls and then continued the hike to upper falls. In total, this was a 3.5 mile hike. 

From here we stopped at The Cave and Basin, the origins of the Banff National Park, and once considered a must-visit destination for its healing properties. People soaked in the hot springs and were healed from various ailments. The descendants of the indigenous people still use this area for traditional ceremonies. Today swimming is not allowed due to a rapidly declining snail population that lives in these waters and only these waters.

Although the history is interesting, I could have skipped this and not lost any sleep. Someone could have told me about the snails for free and I would have been just as impressed. We left the historical swimming pool area and walked the Marsh Loop, an easy walk through the edge of the marsh. I was hoping to see a moose or even an elk but no luck. We saw a moose on Wednesday, but it was so far away. I wanted to see one closer - close like the zoo closeness but in the wild. 

I could have skipped this trail, too, and not lost any sleep. But just as I did, it would be the day the moose made its appearance. 

After lunch and a walk down Main Street, (my sweet potato and corn chowder was heavenly), we drove just outside of Banff to see Two Jack Lake. The locals were here sunbathing, kayaking, and picnicking. You know it’s good when the locals are there. We skipped the hike because, well my toes still hurt and Wes is tired, but the water was once again beautiful!

Just a little farther down the road was Lake Minnewanka, the largest, deepest lake in Banff National Park. The locals were here, too, picnicking and sunbathing on the limestone rocks. I walked around the perimeter of the lake while Wes took a nap in the car. 

In my opinion, it was more beautiful than Louise. The park officials do not allow any water sports here because the temp remains just above freezing - even in summer - and the threat of hypothermia is too great. 

We took a hour long guided boat tour to back country. The afternoon weather was so nice - perfect for the lake. 

The Lakes

Today we were up at 0530 to catch the shuttle to Lake Louise, the crown jewel of Banff National Park.

I was adamant that we would spend the morning hiking; we also spent the morning on the verge of death. We hiked 3.5 miles straight up a mountain - we gained 2000 feet in elevation in about five minutes. Part of this trail was packed snow - easy to climb and not slick. And this early in the morning, the crowds were non-existent.

We stopped a couple of times to take in the view of Lake Louise from above. It was breathtaking! The higher we got the more turquoise the water looked. 

We stopped for water and pics at Mirror Lake with a view of Big Beehive. 

The trek up Lake Agnes Trail eventually ended at a beautiful waterfall fed by Lake Agnes which was fed by glaciers in the moutains. We stopped at the teahouse for apple crumble and hot drinks because the snow was falling, the temp was hovering at 35 degrees, and the wind was blowing 40 mph. It was cold! 

I had hoped that we would then take the trail to Seven Glaciers Point, but warnings were posted for possible avalanches and the trail could not be seen due to heavy snow. Even I recognized my limits. Wes said a prayer of thanksgiving because four more miles uphill was not on his morning agenda. So we (I) decided to take the Little Beehive trail instead. Wes almost divorced me at the switchback that took us another mile straight uphill, but some kind stranger convinced him to trek on. A hundred feet and around the corner, snow was thicker and the path slicker, but the wind wasn’t as strong. I felt we, even with no experience with mountains or snow, could do this. We kept on keeping on. Until we saw Lake Louise at the very top of the mountain. 

So worth it! 

And then we walked four miles down the mountain to grab lunch. Fortified with food after a full calorie depletion, we took the shuttle to Lake Morraine, the step-sister of Banff National Forest lakes. 

But she was still a Cinderella in my eyes. We took the hour long, easy out and back trail alongside the lake. 

Ten miles are logged for today - almost all uphill because even the downhill was uphill. Our feet are sore. Our calves are tight. We will sleep like babies tonight.